Ice Skating in the Netherlands

It may still be 50 degrees and raining outside in Amsterdam, but that doesn’t mean the Dutch haven’t started to lace up their skates for the start of this winter’s ice skating season.

Winters in Amsterdam used to get frosty and frigid, and Hollanders would flock to the canals by the hundreds to take advantage of the frozen waters. But in the past few decades, milder weather has meant significantly less cold days for ice lovers (global warming, anyone?). In fact, last winter was the first year in over ten years that the temperatures stayed cold enough for the canals outside of the city to freeze. As a result, manmade skating rinks have popped up all over Amsterdam and are a favorite winter pastime.

Ice Skating at the Artis Zoo

The Artis has always been a pretty happening zoo, but this winter its coolness factor is going over the top with the addition of an ice rink right in the middle of everything. Ice skating, animals, and booze? I may be an animal lover, but to me this sounds like the perfect day.

So make a day out of it – check out the animals for a bit (you’ll laugh at their selection of animals… there’s even a raccoon, a overpopulated nescience where I’m from in the Pacific Northwest!), then head over to the rink and skate the day away. If you get cold, there’s a wonderful historic indoor aquarium that will entertain you and serve as a great place to warm up your freezing hands and feet.

The only downside of the day is that it will cost you €17.50, the same amount it costs to get in the zoo. To make it worthwhile, pack a picnic to avoid the slightly overpriced food, and take advantage of all the zoo has to offer.

Skating at the Leidseplein

As one of the top tourist destinations in the city, the Leidseplein is always buzzing with people and entertainment, and its annual ice skating rink only adds to the fun. Any student traveler can easily spend hours and hours here, taking a break between skating and sitting at one of the area’s many cafes with a coffee or a glasje of beer.

The skating rink is free of charge, though you will have to shell out a few euros for ice skates (assuming you didn’t lug your own skates all around Europe).

Skating at the Museumplein

The pond behind the Rijksmuseum will once again be turned into a skating rink this year, so get ready to brave hoards of Dutch children and have some fun on the ice. The rink is one of the more popular ones in the city, but if you go on a weekday you shouldn’t run into too many crowds.

The rink is open from 10am – 8pm, and is festively lit in the evenings.

Check out the iAmsterdam website for a full listing of this year’s ice skating spots.

Artis Zoo, Plantage Kerklaan 38-40. 1018 CZ Amsterdam. Open 9am – 5pm December 12^th – March 14^th.

Skating Rink Leidseplein, 1017 Amsterdam. Open November 6^th – January 10^th.

Skating Rink Museumplein, 1071 Amsterdam. Open 10am – 8pm December 18^th – February 28^th.

Deventer's annual Christmas market

If your idea of Christmas markets are Hallmark events with Santa Claus, Rudolf and his elves trying to get you to buy useless crap, think again.

Christmas markets in the Netherlands are magical (excuse my cheesiness) events, filled with enough activities, fattening food and funny and authentic Dutch stalls to keep any college-aged student entertained.  Here are some of the best ones (hint: don’t go to Amsterdam!) that are sure to get you in the holiday spirit.

Maastricht

Late November – Late December

Maastricht is a sweet little town all year round, but near the Christmas holidays it turns into a holiday wonderland that only Scrooge could find unpleasant.  As one of the better-known Christmas markets in the Netherlands, Maastricht has a lot to offer, with its Christmas ‘Winterland’ containing a skating rink, a Palace of Mirrors, a giant Ferris wheel and its Venetian Grand Carousel.  Think these activities are just for kids?  Don’t deceive yourself – a lot of fun can be had doing activities that remind you of your childhood (especially when alcohol is involved!).

When you get tired of Winterland, be sure to take a look around at all the Christmas stalls, where you can pick up strange Dutch souvenirs and Christmas ornaments for cheap.  And of course there are plenty of food stands offering olibolen, poffertjes and hot chocolate to keep you warm and full.

Deventer

December 18-19

Like Charles Dickens?  Then be sure to check out Deventer for their annual Charles Dickens festival, a Christmas market like nothing you’ve ever seen.  The town comes alive with more than 350 characters from the English writer’s famous books, and you will see plenty of rich ladies, poor tramps in rags as well as all the favorites like the ghost of Marley, Oliver Twist, Mr. Pickwick, and Scrooge himself.

Christmas trees and over 200 stalls line the streets of Deventer during this weekend, and you won’t want to pass up on the city’s famous ‘Deventer Koek’ gingerbread as you’re strolling through the festivities.  Each year more than 100,000 people from all over Europe visit Deventer for this famous festival, so don’t miss out.

Valkenburg

November 21 – December 21

The town of Valkenburg is built around an enchanting ruined castle, and holds its ‘Fluweelengrot’ Christmas market each year in beautifully lit old quarry tunnels and caves running underneath the town.

Every year the Valkenburg Christmas market has a theme of the season, and this year’s theme, Christmas Around the World, means you will get to see unusual Christmas traditions and eat food inspired by various countries around the world.  Of course, there are plenty of Dutch inspired things as well, and you can browse stall after stall of authentic Dutch handcrafted products and gifts.

Hint: Valkenburg is just east of Maastricht, so if you’re motivated enough you could make a day trip or a weekend getaway out of both markets.

Arnhem

December 13 – 24

Aside from the shopping, known as some of the best in the Netherlands, Arnhem offers a worthwhile Christmas market and is only an hour train ride from Amsterdam.

During the two weeks of Arnhem’s Christmas market, the city lights up with holiday spirit and has plenty of activities to offer the student wanderer.  Watch a Dutch championship of ice carving, go to a play at the winter night theatre (beware: it will probably be in Dutch!) or browse the stalls for treats or memorabilia.

The classic Tofurkey

Finding yourself stuck in the Netherlands for Thanksgiving?  Wondering how you’re going to get that beloved turkey (or tofurkey!) you’ve become so accustomed to stuffing yourself with on the fourth Thursday in November in America?

Well, all is not lost.  In Amsterdam, there are so many expatriates and students that you’re bound to find something worthy enough to spend your turkey day at.  Here are a few of the top events going on in town:

Hard Rock Café Amsterdam:  I have to admit that ever since I was about twelve years old when Hard Rock Cafes were really cool, I’ve avoided them in almost every city I’ve visited.  And yes they may be touristy, but if you’re looking for a Thanksgiving feast and Americans and other English-speaking expats to spend it with, this is the place to go!  Their turkey day feast will include everything you need to feel at home: corn chowder, turkey, mashed potatoes with gravy, homemade stuffing, cranberry sauce and pumpkin pie (sorry vegetarians, they no longer have tofurkey available – they said they tried it one year but none of the veggies there wanted it!).  The whole meal will cost you between €17.95 and €24.95, well worth it for a Thanksgiving dinner in a foreign country.  Plus,

American Book Center:  My favorite English book store in Amsterdam in hosting a potluck at their “Treehouse” space down the street.  They’ll have turkey and all the trimmings, plus a vegetarian main dish.  They do however encourage guests to bring a starter or dessert to share, so be sure pick something up at a grocery store or a bakery if you decide to go.  Reservations are required, and it will cost you €20 to get in.

Satellite Sports Café:  Watching football on Thanksgiving is just about as big of an American tradition as eating turkey and mashed potatoes.  This slightly touristy but homey café will have all the games you’ve ever wanted, plus plenty of beer to wash them down with.

Have a safe and fun Thanksgiving!

Hard Rock Café Amsterdam: Max Euweplein 57- 61, 1017 MA Amsterdam, NL

American Book Center Amsterdam: Spui 12. 1017 XA Amsterdam, NL

Satellite Sports Café: Leidseplein. 1017 PS Amsterdam, NL

I’ve never been to a burlesque before, let alone a chocolate burlesque, so this was really something for me.  As you might expect, girls in skimpy twenties-reminiscent outfits moved scandalously around chocolate fountains, looking to show the crowd a good time.

There were even a few non-professional volunteers that danced their way up to the stage – one even got so into it she ripped her dress off (the others did not follow her lead).  She seemed so confident it is hard to believe she’d never danced before a crowd before.

Of course, instead of being right up by the stage, I spent most of my night going back and forth from the bar to the chocolate fountain they had set up with strawberries, cookies, bananas and other delicacies – how could I resist?

The Expat Center, in association with the lofty iAmsterdam campaign, is producing a short film to be used by companies and organizations for purposes of training and helping in relocation.

The type of stories they will be looking for are:

• Personal impressions of the Dutch
• Experiences with civil service
• Experiences in your place of work
• How international you think the Amsterdam metropolitan area is

I would take part, but… I’m pretty sure they’re going to be looking for nearly all positive responses, since this video will be shown to future expats who know nothing about living in the Netherlands.  If only they were looking for negative stories – I have some great ones!  Oh, the Dutch.

If you are interested though, they are looking for about 20 people who can share their stories on Tuesday, December 1st.  Check out the iAmsterdam website for more information.

Haarlem's lively Market Square

If you’re in the Netherlands and decide you want a break from the hustle and bustle of Amsterdam, consider taking a day trip to Haarlem.

Yes, this is the same Haarlem that gave the American Harlem its name back when New York was still New Amsterdam.  Once a thriving commercial center rivaling Amsterdam, the Dutch Haarlem of today is a small but lively market town and attracts visitors from all over Europe.

Only a 15-minute train ride from Amsterdam, Haarlem itself is charming and picturesque, best seen by foot or by bike.  If you have a choice, try to go on a Saturday where the general market takes place in the 700-year-old Market Square, and where venders sell cheese, fish, flowers, and small souvenirs to eager locals and tourists.  Or you might want to hit the Monday market for great deals on clothing.

If you miss the markets, be sure to still hit up the Market Square – get a beer or a coffee and people watch, or build a picnic with local Dutch foods like raw herring, local cheese, or Dutch fries (a great way to save money!).  Dutch people really like to relax and enjoy a drink or a snack for a couple of hours, and this is a great way to take in the local culture without having to spend any money.

And if you’re looking for a little local history, be sure to check out the Grote Kerk (Great Church), one of the most well known landmarks in the Netherlands.  Or take a peek in the small History Museum to get a sense of the old Haarlem.  But be sure to do plenty of walking around as well – you can get a wonderful sense of the town and culture by looking at the architecture and talking to a few locals.

Since Amsterdam is so close by, nightlife isn’t a big attraction in Haarlem – but you can still find a few brown bars open late if you decide to stay the night.  Or you can always get a late train back to Amsterdam where the bars stay open until 2 a.m. on weeknights and 3 a.m. on weekends.

Haarlem is well worth a visit, but don’t go on a Sunday!  Like many small European towns, pretty much everything is closed, and you’ll find yourself wandering without much to do.

Steaming cocktails at the NEMO science museum

This weekend I went to check out Museum Night, the much beloved annual affair in Amsterdam where thousands of people flock to 40+ of the city’s best museums until 2 a.m. (see: A Night at the Museums).

Because I had gone to the bigger museums like the Van Gogh and Rijks Museum last year, this year I decided to check out (what I thought would be) some of the less popular places in order to mix it up and avoid crowds.

The night started out at the science museum NEMO, a fantastic gem in the heart of Amsterdam.  I’m a big fan of science museums but had never actually been to this one, so it was pretty cool to be going so late at night.  The place was packed with kids and adults checking out all the exhibits and (those over 16) sipping on strange steaming cocktails.  There was a new exhibition about the search for life in outer space, as well as the ever-strange and slightly creepy Elektra, the largest humanoid robot in Europe who spoke to her audience in a mix of Dutch in English about electricity and communication.  I would definitely go back there again next year.

Right outside of NEMO, on the nearby IJ bay, was the VOC ship, a replica of a 13^th century Dutch East India Company ship and part of the National Maritime Museum.  Though none of us had planned on going there, it was one of the coolest events of the night.  The ship itself was really interesting to walk through – workers were dressed up as crew members and some pretty convincing pirates even invaded the ship at one point.  Plus, the mulled wine was great (and cheap), and to top it all off, there was a movement-to-music device where you could bop away to some tunes and see an outline of yourself on the gigantic NEMO building nearby.  It may sound cheesy, but it was certainly entertaining!

Our next stop was the Hortus Botanical Garden, a place I’ve always been meaning to go but have never actually made it to.  We thought it would be pretty empty because it was fairly cold outside (though not raining, thankfully), but there was actually a line to get in and the place was pretty packed inside.  Overall is was pretty cool to walk through the place at night, and though there weren’t really any special events going on there was plenty of music and beer.

The last stop of the night ended up being the Hermitage Museum, Amsterdam’s newest museum detailing the life of Russian Tsars from the 19^th century.  I’d never been before so I didn’t really know what to expect.  The crowd was mostly older and unlike the other museums we went to, you weren’t allowed to take drinks throughout the building which was a bummer.  On the whole it was pretty interesting, though maybe a little dry for two in the morning.  They did spice it up a bit by putting on a recreation of a formal Russian Ball from the 19^th century for visitors to take part in, but since we weren’t dressed accordingly, we just took a quick peek at the spectacle.

We would have gone to more museums, but ran out of time – guess that will have to wait until next year!

Museum Night 2009

Think museums are just daytime activities?  Think again.

One of my favorite events in Amsterdam is the annual Museumnacht, coming up this year on Saturday, November 7^th.  I went last year and had a fantastic time, and am fully amped for this year’s event.

What is Museum Night?  Just about the coolest thing ever.  With the purchase of one €17.50 ticket, you get unlimited entrance to more than 40 museums from 7 pm to 2 am, more than 100 activities (music, dance, performances and more), a discount at 9 clubs organizing Museum Night after parties, free use of all Amsterdam public transportation from 6 pm to 6 am, and one free museum visit valid until December 31^st.  Plus, there’s alcohol!

Amsterdam has some great museums – think Van Gogh, the Anne Frank House, the Rijksmusuem (housing Rembrandt, Vermeer, and other famous Dutch painters), and the hugely popular FOAM photography museum.  Many of these museums will have special exhibits on display that night so despite the unavoidable line, they’re worth a visit (just don’t forget your umbrella!)

For those who want something a little off the beaten path, take a walk around the Artis, the Amsterdam zoo, planetarium and aquarium where you’ll be able to see the animals and fish in their nocturnal habitats.  There’s also the local science museum, NEMO, which will have all kinds of nerdy and fun science-related activities going on.  Or head to the Amsterdam Olympic Stadium where the games of 1928 were held – visitors will get to see the stunning architecture and will be invited for an Olympic challenge on the athletics track at midnight.

Happy museum visiting!

Tickets can be found at post offices, the AUB ticket shop, and various locations around the city.  Museums will not be selling tickets at the door so get yours ahead of time!

Mmm... chocolate

Chocolate lovers, listen up:  CHOCA, the largest chocolate festival in the Netherlands, will begin this weekend in Amsterdam.

For two weeks this November, chocoholics can take part in chocolate making workshops, chocolate high tea, a four course chocolate canal cruise, even a chocolate burlesque.  There will also be plenty of chocolate tasting at various venues all across the city.

The annual CHOCA festival comes out of the longtime Dutch infatuation with the cocoa bean, beginning in the 1820s when Dutchman Coenraad J. van Houten invented the cocoa press.  Today, over one billion pounds of cocoa beans pass through Amsterdam’s port each year, making the city the world’s largest cocoa port.

Some of this year’s CHOCA events will be a bit draining on the wallet (some run as high as €45 to €100!), so the student traveler looking for chocolate on a budget might want to stick to some of the less snooty events, such as the opening event (free) and the CHOCA party (free if you go before 9:00 pm).  Or, you can always just avoid the high cost and hubbub but still get your chocolate fix at the city’s best chocolate shop, Puccini Bomboni.

CHOCA will take place from November 7th – 20th at various locations in Amsterdam, the Netherlands.

Steven Colbert

Steven Colbert, American comedian and host of The Colbert Report, announced a fund raising campaign Monday night on his nighttime show to become the official sponsor of the U.S. Speedskating team two weeks after Dutch bank DSB declared bankruptcy.

DSB Bank had been a major backer of the US Olympic sport that had produced 75 medals since the first Olympic games in 1924, more than any other Olympic sport.  Yet three months ahead of the 2010 Vancouver Winter Olympics, the bankruptcy of the Dutch firm left a $300,000 gap in the team’s budget and threatened to shut it down.  Colbert’s backing of the U.S. Speedskating team will allow them to compete this winter.

Colbert Nation will not actually spend cash to sponsor the team, but instead has launched a fund-raising effort allowing its viewers to donate to the cause.  The official Colbert Nation logo will appear on the team’s uniforms, taking the place of the DSB Bank logo previously there.

Steven, you are my hero!